The Amalfi Coast

The coast road is twenty-six miles of hairpins shared, in August, with every coach in Campania. So we plan around it. April to June and September to October are the connoisseur's windows, and within them we base you in one town for the whole stay, then move you by water: a private launch to Capri before the ferries arrive, along the cliffs to lunch, back as the light goes gold.

Where you base yourself is the itinerary. Positano gives you Le Sirenuse and its Champagne bar at sunset, with Da Adolfo a short ride away on the little boat with the red fish on its mast, where the mozzarella arrives grilled on lemon leaves. Ravello, high above it all, trades beach for Villa Cimbrone's Terrace of Infinity and clifftop concerts at the summer festival, with Palazzo Avino or the Caruso's infinity pool as home. Near Conca dei Marini, Monastero Santa Rosa holds its tiered gardens above the sea in near silence.

The one walk we insist on: the Path of the Gods, high above the coast, early, before the heat. Then spaghetti alle vongole with the family at Lo Scoglio, and nobody has ever complained about the order of that day.

Best months

April to June, September to October. Warm sea, walkable towns, tables to be had.

Avoid-ish

July and August work only if you accept the boat rule completely and nap at noon.

Getting in

Private transfer from Naples, or arrive by sea and skip the road altogether.

How long

Four to five nights, one base. Pair with Rome or Puglia if you have the fortnight.